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Today’s attraction was an old man with blue eyes and boy with a blond hair. I had not seen such a wonder in about 2 months (I haven’t seen even myself in the mirror for about a week) so I was strongly impressed. The legend goes that deserters from Alexander the Macedonian army established here in Chitral, but if they were only a dozen hardly their genes would have to survive until today. The weather began slowly to break. Yesterday I was freezing in Shandur pass (3700 m), the lake was covered with a thin frost, and the wind was bringing down the temperature by a few degrees. Alexander traversed in winter (after Chitral), so that defectors were smart dudes. Tirich Mir (7700 m) is still shrouded in clouds. I hope it will show up one of these days.

In Aliabad under the slopes of peak Rakaposhi (7800 m) I was nearly swept by the anger of another cheerful Friday anti-American-Israeli demonstration.